This video shows removing and shaping sabi. The sabi I applied a couple of days ago I made with lacquer for glass since I have a tube I want to use up. The sabi is still too soft, it is still cold here in Japan and it isn’t curing fast.
For more on traditional, lacquer based kintsugi see kintugi.com or https://www.kintugi.com/?page_id=80
This video shows applying sabi. I cut the sabi that was in place way back since it was so hard from sitting around so long. Super hard sabi is difficult to shape.
For more on traditional, lacquer based kintsugi see kintugi.com or https://www.kintugi.com/?page_id=80
This video shows removing sabi from a piece that has been sitting around for over a year. The sabi is very hard and I am removing most of the parts in order to reapply it.
For more on traditional, lacquer based kintsugi see kintugi.com or https://www.kintugi.com/?page_id=80
This video isn’t about kintsugi but kasugai, staple repair. 鎹 修理,
The video shows fitting pure copper staples to the body of the bowl. I am using regular hand held burner to heat them, the staples are held on kiln bricks which are fireproof. The third staple fitting fails and that is the end of the video. I straightened out the points of that staple and then refitted it.
For more on this process and other steps for traditional, lacquer based kintsugi, see
This video isn’t about kintsugi but kasugai, staple repair. 鎹 修理,
This video shows sharpening of the tips, the parts that will go into the holes in the ceramic body. I am using a flat file. The staples are held in place by a mini vise. These staples are the ones in part 2 that are the 3rd set I made, from steel.
I will probably make 1 more set from pure copper.
For more on this process and other steps for traditional, lacquer based kintsugi, see
This video isn’t about kintsugi but kasugai, staple repair. 鎹 修理,
I made staples from 3 types of metal.
The first is from the copper looking staples that hold cardboard box together. It looks like copper but is just a regular metal with copper color. It is too thick to make a good, flush fitting staple.
The second staple is made from pure copper from electrical line. I flattened it on an anvil. It is easy to bend and file to a point on the bent part which fits in the hole.
The third type of staple is made from a 1.5 mm diameter steel rod, regular steel, not stainless. It was the easiest to bend precisely to size and file points on.
The last photo is of one of the damaged staples which I took out to replace. It is flat, less than .5 mm thick.
The bowl
For more on this process and other steps for traditional, lacquer based kintsugi, see
This video isn’t about kintsugi but kasugai, staple repair.
I bought an antique, large, Chinese bowl that already had 15 staples in it but 3 were missing. I am going to replace the staples and since the holes are already there for them I just need to make 3. This video shows making one, I have already made the other 2. I use a round file in the video since my flat file isn’t very sharp. I am making the staples about 1/10th. mm smaller than the width of the holes to account for heating and contraction.
For more on this process and other steps for traditional, lacquer based kintsugi, see
Traditional, lacquer based kintsugi, this video shows more polishing in step 5b, polishing #3 gold with aburatonoko. Abura(oil)tonoko(natural polishing powder) is made by adding oil, I use cooking oil, to tonoko to make a sticky mix. Take that and apply it with your finger or tissue, rubbing as hard as you can. Finish by using tissue to remove the excess.
I will do subsequent steps in following videos.
For more on this process and other steps for traditional, lacquer based kintsugi, see
Traditional, lacquer based kintsugi, this video shows more polishing in step 5, polishing #3 gold with 3 types of polishing compound. I will do subsequent steps in following videos.
For more on this process and other steps for traditional, lacquer based kintsugi, see