There is no audio in this video. The step 5.5 refers to this page, http://www.kintugi.com/?page_id=80
I am filling small holes and indents using sabi, a mixture of jinoko and lacquer, red in this video as I had it left over from a different process.
This video has no audio. Reconstruction using traditional lacquer based kintsugi. This is more preparation work on this Ming period celadon large charger. I am doing more shaping and then at 9minutes, 32 seconds, applying sabi.
This video has no audio. It is 3 short videos put together without any editing. The transitions between the videos are at 3 minutes, 12 seconds and then at 7 minutes, 19 seconds.
This is a Ming period large plate. It has a couple of areas I am working on to repair in traditional kintsugi.
One of the areas has had a fitted wood insert put in. Whoever put it in didn’t pay attention to the fluting on the outer edge of the rim. The video shows the first couple of steps of defining the edge, making a form, transition at 3 minutes, 12 seconds, and then cutting the wood insert, transition at 7 minutes, 19 seconds.
This video has no audio. It shows step 8, referred to on this page, http://www.kintugi.com/?page_id=80 sanding of middle black. I applied basic lacquer so I am actually sanding basic but it is in the middle lacquer position, i.e., over sabi, part of the shaping steps.
Here is a project I am working on. It is an Edo period Shino Oribe suribachi, a mortar. It has been glued back together after a fairly clean break in two. Who ever glued it used a rubberized glue so it is possible to remove the glue, slow but possible.
Here are some more pieces I disassembled and one I couldn’t get apart. One of the pieces is a Ming period celadon, 45cm. diameter plate with an interesting wood repair piece. The piece I couldn’t get apart is the Oribe suribachi. I tried twice applying heat to it for a total of 30 minutes but I guess the walls are so thick that the epoxy doesn’t weaken easily.